The small French village of Ars-sur-Formans does not stand out at first glance. Nestled in the countryside of eastern France, about 35 kilometers north of Lyon, it looks much like any other rural town. Yet Ars is home to one of the most significant pilgrimage sites in Catholic Europe: the Shrine of Saint John Vianney, the “Curé of Ars.” For nearly two centuries, men and women have come here seeking inspiration, healing, and a reminder of the strength of one humble parish priest who became the patron saint of parish clergy.
This article offers an account of what pilgrims can expect at Ars, why the place matters, and how to plan a journey there.
Who Was John Vianney?
John Vianney was born in 1786 in Dardilly, not far from Ars. His early life was marked by the turmoil of the French Revolution, when churches were closed, priests were persecuted, and the practice of the faith often took place in secret. Vianney himself struggled with studies, particularly Latin, but eventually was ordained a priest in 1815.
In 1818, he was sent to Ars, a tiny parish of about 230 people. The village was known more for its taverns than its devotion. Vianney made it his life’s mission to bring his parish back to God. He lived simply, prayed intensely, preached with sincerity, and gave countless hours to the confessional. Soon people began to hear of this priest’s holiness, and pilgrims came in droves. By the time of his death in 1859, he was seeing as many as 20,000 pilgrims a year. Pope Pius XI canonized him in 1925, and he remains a model for priests and lay faithful alike.
The Pilgrim’s Experience Today
Arriving in Ars, pilgrims find a village that has grown around the legacy of the Curé. The heart of the pilgrimage is the Basilica of Ars, where his incorrupt body rests in a glass reliquary above the main altar. Pilgrims often begin their visit here, praying quietly, attending Mass, or simply sitting in silence before the saint’s remains.
Other key sites include:
- The Presbytery (Parish House): Preserved much as it was when Vianney lived there. Visitors can see his simple bed, the worn cassock, and the tiny kitchen where he lived a life of extreme simplicity. Walking through these rooms gives a direct sense of the Curé’s daily sacrifices.
- The Old Church of Ars: The small church where he preached and heard confessions. The confessional where Vianney spent countless hours is still there, worn with age but still bearing witness to his ministry.
- The Chapel of the Heart: In a side chapel, pilgrims can see the saint’s heart, preserved as a relic. For many, this is a powerful moment, standing so near to the heart that was so full of compassion for sinners.
- The Monumental Basilica: Built later to accommodate the crowds of pilgrims, the basilica blends with the smaller church where Vianney once worked, forming a striking symbol of continuity between his humble beginnings and the great devotion that followed him.
The atmosphere of Ars is one of quiet reverence. Pilgrims are not overwhelmed by grandeur here but invited into simplicity. Many describe their time in Ars as peaceful, humbling, and renewing. The place seems to whisper the lesson of Vianney’s life: holiness is not about brilliance or strength but about fidelity and love.
Planning a Pilgrimage
Getting There
Ars-sur-Formans is located in the Ain department of France, not far from Lyon. Pilgrims often travel first to Lyon, which has an international airport and is well connected by train. From Lyon, one can reach Ars by car (about 45 minutes) or by regional bus. Group pilgrimages often arrange buses directly to Ars.
Where to Stay
The shrine has facilities for pilgrims, including retreat houses and modest lodgings run by religious communities. There are also small hotels and guesthouses in Ars and neighboring towns. Pilgrims seeking quiet retreats often stay within the shrine’s accommodations, which are simple but convenient.
Best Times to Visit
Ars welcomes pilgrims year-round, but the main feast is August 4th, the feast of Saint John Vianney. Thousands gather on this day for processions and Masses. Pilgrims who prefer a quieter experience may choose other times of year, when the crowds are smaller. Spring and early autumn are particularly pleasant, as the weather is mild.
What to Do
Pilgrims typically follow a rhythm of prayer and exploration:
- Attend Mass in the basilica.
- Spend time in Eucharistic adoration.
- Walk through the presbytery and old church.
- Visit the chapel of the heart.
- Take time for silence and reflection in the surrounding countryside.
Many also go to confession, honoring the legacy of the saint who became known as the “confessor of souls.”
Lessons of the Curé of Ars
The pilgrimage to Ars is not just about seeing relics or churches. It is about entering into the spirit of John Vianney’s life. His lessons are simple yet enduring:
- Faithfulness in Small Things: Vianney never sought greatness but served faithfully in his small parish. His example reminds us that holiness often grows in hidden, everyday acts.
- The Power of Confession: He believed deeply in God’s mercy, spending long hours reconciling sinners. Pilgrims often return from Ars with a renewed appreciation for confession and God’s forgiveness.
- Simplicity of Life: Vianney lived with very little, giving most of what he had to the poor. Ars invites pilgrims to reflect on how much is truly needed to live well.
- Perseverance in Weakness: Vianney struggled academically and felt inadequate. Yet he became a saint through perseverance and trust in God. His life shows that weakness is not an obstacle but often the starting point for grace.
Why Make the Journey?
Pilgrimage is not tourism. It is a journey with the heart as much as with the feet. Ars is not Rome or Santiago, with grand basilicas and bustling crowds of international pilgrims. Instead, it is a small village where one man’s faithfulness transformed countless lives.
Those who come often leave with a sense of renewal. They see in John Vianney a mirror of their own struggles and an encouragement to keep going. The shrine is not about spectacle but about authenticity. It is a place to slow down, pray, and rediscover the quiet strength of faith.
Conclusion
The Shrine of Saint John Vianney in Ars-sur-Formans stands as a reminder that holiness can be found in the most ordinary places. A priest who struggled in school, who lived in poverty, and who never left his parish became a saint who still draws pilgrims from across the world.
For those seeking peace, encouragement, or a deeper encounter with God’s mercy, Ars offers an invitation. Walk the streets where the Curé once walked. Pray in the church where he prayed. Sit in the presbytery where he lived. And perhaps, like the countless pilgrims before, you will find that in Ars the voice of God speaks quietly but clearly: faithfulness is enough.
